Tram lines are found only on Hong Kong Island. Established in 1904 along what used to be the waterfront, these are old, narrow, double-decker affairs that clank their way in a straight line slowly along the northern edge of the island from Kennedy Town in the west to Shau Kei Wan in the east, with one branch making a detour to Happy Valley. Passing through the Central District, Wan Chai, and Causeway Bay on Des Voeux Road, Queensway Road, and Hennessy Road, they can't be beat for atmosphere and are easy to ride since most of them go only on one line (those branching off to Happy Valley are clearly marked). In the zeal to modernize Central, it's a wonder that these trams have survived at all. Since the advent of the subway, there's been talk of getting rid of these ancient trams, but this has raised a storm of protest. Since their future is uncertain, be sure to ride them while you can. They are easily one of the most nostalgic forms of transportation in Hong Kong.
Enter the trams from the back and go immediately up the winding stairs to the top deck. The best seats in the house are those in the front row, where you have an unparalleled view of Hong Kong: laundry hanging from second-story windows, signs swinging over the street, markets twisting down side alleys, crowded sidewalks, and people darting in front of the tram you'd swear couldn't have made it. Riding the tram is one of the cheapest ways of touring Hong Kong Island's northern side, and the fare is the same no matter how far you go. Once you've had enough, simply go downstairs to the front of the tram and deposit the exact fare of HK$2 (US25¢) into a little tin box next to the bus driver as you exit. Children and seniors pay half fare. If you don't have the exact amount, don't panic--no one will arrest you for overpaying a few cents. You can also use the Octopus card. Trams run daily from 6am to 1am.
In addition to the old-fashioned trams, there's also the Peak Tram, a funicular that transports passengers to one of Hong Kong's star attractions: Victoria Peak and its incomparable views. Its lower terminus is on Garden Road in Central, which you can reach via a HK$3.20 (US40¢) shuttle bus departing from the Star Ferry concourse (next to City Hall) at 10- to 20-minute intervals daily from 10am to 11:45pm (to 8pm on Sun and public holidays). The tram itself runs every 15 minutes from 7am to midnight, with round-trip tickets costing HK$30 (US$3.90) for adults and HK$9 (US$1.15) for children. You can also use an Octopus card.
